Parks Get Political

The amazing Frisico hosted us well, and with our stomachs full and our dancing shoes heavily worn, it was time for the next great adventure--the Sierras. Well, kind of. After driving three hours from San Francisco over to Yosemite, we were informed of the government shutdown, which resulted in closures of the national parks. Thus, we had to do what any outraged citizens and park enthusiasts would--break in! It was quite eerie driving through a park, which sees almost 4 million annual visitors, in such desolation. Nevertheless, we got our photos before everyone got evacuated in strange Armageddon-like fashion. 

Since Yosemite, Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks were supposed to be a two-week backpacking excursion, we had to come up with a backup plan. And somehow hippie hot springs in the wilderness made it to the list, which we later found out did not favor modesty (a euphemism for fully nude).

But back to the coast we went. First, a weekend in Santa Cruz. We lucked with some budget friendly events in town, including gallery hopping with complimentary wine and a fall harvest festival with a ton of free food samples. Yum! But the most memorable Santa Cruz treasure, aside from the majestic beaches and radical roller coaster, the Tacos Moreno burrito--an overstuffed mammoth full of crispy succulent carnitas, all the fixins', warmed up on the griddle. Incredible. And absolutely in the top 3 bites of Roadtrip USA!

As we cruised further south, a trip to the Salinas Valley and the home of John Steinbeck was an absolute must. And it turns out Steinbeck took a very similar route in his Travels with Charlie!

The posh Monterey was just a quick drive through, where again the reverberations of Steinbeck remain. Then, the only toll road we've had to pay for through the ultra swanky 17-miles of Pebble Beach. Beautiful? Definitely. A $10 toll? C'mon, Pebble Beach residents--you're already rich!

However, just miles south, lies one of America's most beautiful landscapes and Kerouac's inspiration. I mean the Big Sur of course, where the winding road guides you along the coast to admire marine wildlife and eroded rock formations protruding from the endless Pacific. 

We were lucky enough to do a 50-mile backpacking trek in the Ventana Wilderness, regardless of the park closures. The solitude and ridge line nature-scapes were indescribable. But running out of water, hiking 14 miles in the dessert sun while gaining 3,600ft of elevation and the destination (which we thought was a town) being a shut down campsite with no water, CAN be described--ahhhhhh! Nevertheless, survival instincts kicked in and we survived! But that's a whole other story.

Coming up next? The West Coast conclusion!

Cruisin' Down the Coast (Kind Of)

After an impressive stint in Washington state, we were off to neighboring Oregon, where the "dream of the 90's" prevails. The first stop (well and pretty much our home base with an awesome friend for a week) was Mt. Hood. We got a chance to check out the massive snow-capped mountain via a quick six-mile hike with this precious pup!

Once we finally made it out to the city of Portland--a place where tattoos, vegans, strip clubs, hobos, and amazing food are ubiquitous--we had to see what the fuss was all about with Voodoo Doughnut. Waiting in line for an hour, for a doughnut? Ridiculous. But I suppose it was unique enough having a maple glazed bacon doughnut.

As per usual, we continued having great eats at the famous food trucks, Lardo, Tasty n' Adler--all incredibly delicious and suggestions from a former BK resident and pal.The Pacific Northwest definitely does not disappoint in the food department but beautiful landscapes and lush greenery are just as magical.

Making our way around Oregon we checked out Multanoma Falls, Crater Lake NP and drove along the incredible coast line where we (I) managed to get the car stuck in a sand dune on the beach. Apparently, when a sign says only rugged vehicles allowed...pay attention! It took over two hours of digging until an ATV with the kindest couple came to our rescue.

The next day we finally made it to California--Redwood National Park to be exact and home to the world's tallest, oldest and largest trees. Spending a night along a river bank among these giants really did put into perspective how small we really are!

We continued down the coast on the famous California Highway 1 but of course not without a quick detour to wine country in Sonoma and Napa Valley.

After a quick overnight at Point Reyes NP we finally made it to San Francisco, where  my phenomenal friend showed us the best time. We drove over the Golden Gate Bridge followed by incredibly steep streets, saw the Tanner house, went to ambient Dolores Park and had an insanely delicious authentic burrito near by in the Mission District.

And just when it couldn't get any better, whelp, my 22nd birthday happened to roll around our last day in Frisco (a term not liked by the locals but loved by me!) The day could not have been more spectacular. I had the best burger of the trip thus far, which is a really big deal for a ground beef patty accompanied by the perfect toppings and bun aficionado.

Then, the topper--a silent disco, on the beach, watching the sunset over the Pacific with the people I Iove lots. Thanks for making it all happen!

Coming up in the next edition, the Sierras!

Impressed by the Northwest

Washington state may be the best in the west, and perhaps even in the US! The diverse landscape offers mountains, forests, rain forests, the Pacific, lakes, rivers, quaint small towns, as well as the urban epicenter Seattle.

Our first stop coming into Washington state was Spokane. What was meant to be a quick stop at the famous Frank's diner, turned into a day in which I consumed more calories than Michael Phelps training for the Olympics. After an amazing meal at Franks, we stopped by the visitor center to get a map where we were informed that the annual "Pig Out Festival" was in taking place. So naturally, we booked the only hotel room of the entire trip and went to the festival, not once, but twice! It was a Mecca of local food vendors serving up amazing bites, in addition to live music. 

24 hours and 5,000 calories later, we were off, to burn it all off, in Washington's harshest terrain at Northern Cascades National Park. There, we took a four-day backpacking trip into the tiny town of Stehekan, only accessible by boat, plane or 18-mile hike. And despite being sick, getting stung multiple times by bees, developing crazy blisters, experiencing temperature extremities (ranging from high 80's to low 30's), rigid terrain and high elevation gains--the experience was amazing.

Next up on the agenda was Vancouver; a city full of pronounced glass high-rises, situated on the water amidst mountains. We enjoyed great sushi, the sunset from "Top of Vancouver" and even won some prizes at trivia night! But the most memorable experience had to be the Grouse Grind or "nature's stair stepper." This entailed climbing steep boulders for an hour and 20 minutes to the top of Grouse Mountain. Buns of Steel had nothing on this workout!

Then we were off to Seattle aka my new favorite city. Of course we checked out the iconic Seattle public market, the space needle, all of the neighborhoods, Volunteer Park, an ultra-fun Ty Segal concert with lots of crowd surfing and even performed a show as a newly formed band at the  Experience Music Project Museum.

We also had some of the trip's best food in Seattle: fried oysters at the Walrus and Carpenter, tea and crumpets at the Crumpet Shop, seafood at Ray's, cupcakes at Cupcake Royale and one of the "20 Burgers Before You Die" at Red Mills. Yummmmmmmm.

And what better way to finish off Tour de Washington than taking a ferry to Olympic National Park--home to Mt. Olympus, the Hoh Rainforest, Sol Duc Hot Springs, and the most beautiful rocky beaches. We definitely ended things off with a bang by hiking out 13 miles along the Seven Lakes Basin loop, where we saw breathtaking views of Mt. Olympus and a bear hanging out on the trail eating berries. As if that wasn't exciting enough for one day, we hightailed it to the coast line, set up camp on the beach and enjoyed our first spectacular Pacific sunset. We finally made it across country!

Next up on the map? Portlandia!

The Great North

The morning after mosquito park, we broke camp at record speed and were off to one of America's greatest natural wonders--Glacier National Park, MT. The park has become so popular that even after submitting a backcountry itinerary six months earlier did not get a spot. Nevertheless, we did get to do a few multi-day loops in the park. Glacier is one of those places where the landscape keeps you asking, "Is this real life?" over and over, as it is hard to fathom that such natural beauty exists.

Since it was harder to get overnight hikes in Glacier than Paul McCartney tickets in Winnipeg, we got to see the less popular parts of the park. But it actually worked in our favor because we got to see great spots like Lake Otokomi.

We also got to do the Quartz Lake Loop, a less popular destination on the west side of the park. There we met some awesome people from Chicago that gave us, just because they were nice, homemade gourmet dehydrated dinners. If you guys read this, go into business--it was top notch!!!

On the the final backcountry trip, the landscape was very multi-faceted. We went from a forest, to prairies amidst mountains, and of course walked along several rivers and lakes. But here we found a gem off the trail that most people don't know about, which is Margaret Falls. 

While driving on "the most beautiful road in the US," Going-to-the-Sun Road, to get to our trailheads, we found the most amazing little town. With a population of no less than 50, Polebridge only has a bakery and a bar. But the greatest bakery with the greatest huckleberry bear claw ever...ever!

We also happened to run into a family friend from Chicago in this tiny town.The odds!

After ten days in the backcountry, three pounds of huckleberries, $100 worth of baked goods, four burgers, three-six packs of local brews, two stays at the luxurious campground with a hot tub, we finally parted with Glacier National Park. Then we were off to Sandpoint, Idaho under the pretenses that it was the most beautiful small town in America (according to our atlas). And it sure was.

We checked out the beach--yes a beach in Idaho--the farmers market, and went to a happy hour hotspot where a local radio station was hosting a raffle. With the stars aligned, we won two tickets to a to a rodeo! There we also met the nicest people, who let us just pitch a tent in their lovey backyard for the night. We even woke up to a note on a French press saying to help ourselves! You guys rock.

What's next? Why the home of apples, evergreens and 90's grunge!

From Prairie to Prairie

Coming out of Isle Royale, we were dirty, deprived of substantial food and in need of relative luxury, like a cheeseburger and a beer. And lured by false pretenses of a Thunder Bay City Guide, we were off to Canada to check it out. It was our first time crossing the Canadian border and with the guide in tow, our hopes were set high--showers, food, beer, people! Well that is exactly what we did not get. I still have no idea where the photos from this guide came from. However, we did manage to find an amazing little backpackers hostel for the night with an amazing communal feel and great people. 

In the morning, just as we were ready to head back to the US, my mother informed me that my uncle and aunt live in Winnipeg just, oh, a mere 8 hours away...well, why not?

Driving to Winnipeg, we saw the mountains dissipate and the great pains appear. They really are that flat. We also stumbled upon a Canadian favorite: Poutine (translation) the most amazing gravy cheese fries!

When we arrived at my relatives' home, we were treated to the luxury we (I) have long dreamed of--crudités, meats, cheeses, spreads, breads, desserts, wine, showers, and finally a bed! We were given a city tour, saw the Leo Mol statue garden and I happen to come across a statue of me!

We also had a chance to check out a metal show headlined by The Sword.

After the amazing hospitality, we were finally headed back to the US, more specifically to the state you don't hear much about--North Dakota. It proved to actually have a magical oasis at the Lewis and Clark State Park, of course after endless fields with rolling tumbleweeds. 

And lets not forget, we did also spend a night at mosquito park at the Nelson Reservoir in  Montana. What is on the map labeled as "Buffalo Hot Springs" is actually an abandoned town with non-working water slides. And the free campground is free for a reason--you won't want to get out of your car or you will in fact be eaten alive by Mosquitos. Seriously, over 10 bites a minute. They are hungry out there! Thus in our NY plated car, we sat in the car, eating dinner, blasting AC and did not even care. 

Next up--grizzlies in Glacier NP!

Michigan's UP and Isle Royale

The majestic shorelines of the Great Lake State are truly impossible to describe in words and photos can't capture the organic beauty. Michigan's lower and upper peninsulas engulf three of the Great Lakes--Huron, Michigan and Superior--all of which host chilly pristine waters. And most importantly, you can catch flawless sunsets!

After our stint in Detroit Rock City, we took the scenic route around Michigan's lower peninsula, which is referred to as "the mit," due to its resemblance to a baseball mit. Making our way around the mit, we stayed at a questionable county park, which might as well have been a scene from a horror film. Regardless, we did make some friends who shared their campfire with us, some hot dogs and stories. To solidify my apprehensiveness of the creepy park, they told us a nearby mental institution ran out of funds a few years back and let all of the patients free--cool. By dawn, we were out of there!

The following campground, however, totally made up for the previous night. We got primo waterfront property on Lake Huron with all the bells and whistles. By that I mean a rainbow over the water, shooting stars at night and a stunning sunrise over the lake.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park was an unplanned destination but one of the best decisions made. It's a park that makes you keep asking yourself, " Are we in America? In Michigan?" Situated on the coast of Lake Michigan, it's home to the largest sand dunes in the US. Finally, a place I could kick off my boots and roll around in piles of sand!

After crossing over the Mackinac bridge to get to the Upper Peninsula, we stopped by Pictured Rocks National Park for our first overnight backpacking trip. Again, absolutely stunning. And I learned a valuable lesson--no peeing at night--after an unidentified animal was wresting the food locker and growling outside our tent!

The grand finale in Michigan was Isle Royale. It's the home of a small moose population, 12 wolves, some loons and a handful of backpackers. The journey entailed a two-hour boat ride there and seven hours back, as it is an island in the middle of Lake Superior. For nine days (62 miles) we walked across the island with a tent, sleeping bags, food, a few articles of clothing and a jet boil. Nature was omnipresent and real life was put on hold. One of greatest experiences of my life.

Next up, Canada Eh!